Tomb of John Bayne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, Conservation, Events, History, People, Previous Events

Unlocking the Secrets of Greyfriars

A Landmark Discovery

Something remarkable just happened at Greyfriars Kirkyard. On April 18th, a team of volunteers, archaeologists, and conservators achieved what hasn’t been done in living memory: lifting the massive ledger stone within the John Bayne of Pitcairlie enclosure.

The Rescue Mission

For decades, photographic records showed the stone slowly being swallowed by the earth. After carefully clearing the topsoil, the team discovered the stone had cracked under the pressure. It has now been entrusted to expert stone conservator Nic Boyes for off-site repair before its eventual return to its rightful place.

The Mystery Below

Beyond the stone itself, the team was hunting for a hidden vault. With the Pitcairlie mausoleum showing signs of settlement, understanding the ground conditions is vital for its survival.

The findings so far:

  • The Vault: No entrance was uncovered yet, but clear evidence of burial activity was found.
  • The Next Steps: While the eye couldn’t see a vault, a future Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR) survey will map what lies beneath the surface.
  • The Details: Once cleaned, the ledger stone’s carvings may reveal secrets lost to time.

A Future Secured

These are small steps, but they are essential. Every discovery brings this Category A listed structure one step closer to a safe and secure future.

Two ways to stay tuned as we continue to peel back the layers of Edinburgh’s history. Please become a member of Friends of Greyfriars Kirkyard at fogk.org or join the Edinburgh World Heritage mailing list at ewht.org.uk

Supported by: the National Lottery Heritage Fund, thanks to the National Lottery players and the City of Edinburgh Council. Legacies in Stone: Connecting Communities with Historic Graveyards is a partnership project with Edinburgh World Heritage.

Tomb of John Bayne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Tomb of John Bayne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Bannatyne Memorial Greyfriars Kirkyard
Articles, History, People, Symbolism

Bannatyne v Foulis

There is no doubt in my mind that the Foulis Memorial and the Bannatyne are the two most outstanding examples of monumental architecture in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Each stands alone as soaring celebrations of the symbolism of death, resurrection and status. Each is a sermon in stone that speak volumes about the people they were raised to memorialise and the time in which they died. But do they somehow speak to each other ?

The Foulis was commissioned by George Foulis, the son of the deceased and it was created by the finest Master Mason of the period, William Ayton, in 1633/34. The Bannatyne was commissioned by Janet McMath, the young wife of the deceased and also created by William Ayton in 1635. Whilst each monument has much in common, they are different in some obvious and perhaps quite subtle ways.

The Foulis is designed to be a “look at us” monument, with the portraits of the deceased loving power couple taking centre stage. They look down on viewers from their lofty stance, where they are dressed to impress in their grand, perhaps rather haughty, clothing. Despite the inscription describing them as “humble”, there is nothing remotely modest or reserved about this memorial. One can’t help but think the Kardashians would approve.

The Foulis Memorial

The Bannatyne on the other hand is designed around the theme of Vanity and the need to avoid it. “Vanitas” is the use of symbolism to convey the meaning that life on earth is but a passing phase in which ambition, and worldly desires are futile, a mere vanity. Vanitas artwork developed and became very popular in Holland in the 16th & 17th centuries, where many Scottish people went to study, trade or escape. They were influenced by this art and inevitably brought it back to Scotland. This genre is depicted on the Bannatyne with symbols showing a Cherub blowing bubbles, amongst flowers and smoke, with the words “Nothing evades Death” and “What is Man’s Life ? A shade, a smoke, a flower ; short to the good, to the bad doth long endure” and “know the vanity of transitory things”.

Perhaps this theme on the Bannatyne serves deliberately to contrast with the excessive flamboyant pretentious pomposity of the Foulis ? So could Janet McMath be speaking to George Foulis, saying “I disapprove of your vanity” in a rather subtle & dignified manner ?

Bannatyne Memorial Greyfriars Kirkyard
The Bannatyne Memorial

That either Monument was tolerated by a strictly Protestant society in 17th Century Scotland is something of a surprise. Although perhaps Charles I’s attempts to reintroduce colour, style and ceremony in the 1630’s was almost encouraging such elaborate works.

Forrester Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Articles, History, People, Symbolism

The Forrester Lair

This enclosure was raised by Rachel Balfour, the widow of William Forrester, a Writer to the King’s Signet who died in 1701. The inscription over the entrance speaks about William’s Mother & Father, of whom he was clearly very proud. William’s mother was Christine MacNeil, who had 8 sons and 3 daughters in 50 years of marriage to his father, Reverend Alexander Forrester. Alexander (born in 1611) was a committed Presbyterian and Covenanter who signed the National Covenant in 1638, served with the Covenanter Army in the 1640’s and steadfastly resisted Charles II’s attempts to impose an Episcopalian Church structure in the 1660’s. Alexander was Minister at St Mungo’s in Dumfriesshire, but refused to conform with Charles II’s “innovations” and so was expelled and subsequently arrested for holding an illegal conventicle. He then spent years imprisoned, firstly on Bass Rock and secondly in solitary confinement in the Edinburgh Tolbooth. He died in 1686 aged 75 and was buried at Greyfriars. His wife, Christine died in 1694 and was also buried at Greyfriars.

William was their 4th son who had a successful career as a Writer to the Signet. When William died in 1701 he left instructions to his Widow to erect this burial lair. When built this lair would have stood alone (like a detached house), with its elaborate external side walls, bearing many mortality symbols, fully visible. In subsequent years further burial lairs were built adjacent to the Forrester, effectively turning it in to a terraced house, with its side walls now less visible, but well worth seeking out. The Forrester Lair became a “Den” for youngsters (quite possibly pupils from Heriot’s School), who between 1710 and 1727, carved some fascinating graffiti on the inner walls, also well worth seeking out.

There is no doubt in my mind that the Foulis Memorial and the Bannatyne are the two most outstanding examples of monumental architecture in Greyfriars Kirkyard. Each stands alone as soaring celebrations of the symbolism of death, resurrection and status. Each is a sermon in stone that speak volumes about the people they were raised to memorialise and the time in which they died. But do they somehow speak to each other ?

The Foulis was commissioned by George Foulis, the son of the deceased and it was created by the finest Master Mason of the period, William Ayton, in 1633/34. The Bannatyne was commissioned by Janet McMath, the young wife of the deceased and also created by William Ayton in 1635. Whilst each monument has much in common, they are different in some obvious and perhaps quite subtle ways.

The Foulis is designed to be a “look at us” monument, with the portraits of the deceased loving power couple taking centre stage. They look down on viewers from their lofty stance, where they are dressed to impress in their grand, perhaps rather haughty, clothing. Despite the inscription describing them as “humble”, there is nothing remotely modest or reserved about this memorial. One can’t help but think the Kardashians would approve.

Forrester Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Forrester Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Forrester Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Forrester Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Henry Siddons and William Murray Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, People

Henry Siddons and William Murray

Just to the left of the gates to the Covenanters Prison are this pair of memorials to a family of Theatre impresarios, Henry Siddon on the right and his brother in law, William Henry Murray on the left. Henry was an actor who first found fame on the stage in London, before relocating to Edinburgh to take over management of The Theatre Royal at the east end of Princes Street (now the General Post office buildings). His brother in law, William, took over running the Theatre Royal after Henry died in 1815, and did an excellent job.

Both men were close to Walter Scott who brought George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. William created the settings at various venues, contrived the “revived ancient dresses” and arranged the “traditional” pageants for which George IV’s visit is much remembered to this day. William was particularly acclaimed for his success in transforming the Assembly Rooms in George Street into a theatrical palace for the Peers’ Grand Ball, an event that was pivotal in making the tartan kilt, which had until then been thought of by Edinburgh Gentry as the primitive dress of the rougher sorts in the lawless Highlands, into the national dress of the whole of Scotland. The King’s last and least formal public appearance during his visit to Edinburgh was at a theatre performance of Scott’s Rob Roy adapted and produced by Murray.

Henry Siddons and William Murray Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Janet MacMath Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, People

Women of Greyfriars: Janet MacMath

Janet MacMath was buried at Greyfriars in 1630, 11 years before her Husband, John Trotter of Mortonhall, who died in 1641.

Janet is depicted with her husband, both dressed to impress with large neck ruffs & Janet has a large hood which frames her face.

John Trotter was a successful merchant in Edinburgh during the peaceful & relatively prosperous reign of James VI. John amassed a goodly fortune which allowed him to buy the large and fruitful estate and Baronage of Mortonhall. Thereafter their family line became “the Trotters of Mortonhall”, which they still hold to this day.

John & Janet were married in 1598 and over the following 19 years they had 10 children, six sons and four daughters. Janet’s date of birth is unclear so we can’t be sure how old she was when she died. But we do know that John lived to the grand old age of 88.

This memorial was erected on the North Wall of Greyfriars Kirkyard in 1641, initially open to the elements. But in 1709 their Great Grandson, also called John Trotter, erected a Mausoleum over the family burial ground, enclosing the memorial and thereby cutting it off from public view.

The inscription on the memorial is in Latin, and reads :

Mors patet, hora latet.

Octoginta ultra Trotterus vixerat annos;

Progenie felix, ambitione carens.

Publica privatus curavit; semper egenis

Aut opere, aut opibus, contulis almus opem.

Which translates to :

Death is sure; the hour unsure

Trotter lived for over eighty years;

Happy with his offspring & devoid of ambition.

He cared for the public good as a private citizen;

He always gave generous help to the needy,

Either by work or by wealth.

That should probably be read as if an application form for admittance to heaven ;o)

Janet MacMath Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Janet Bannatyne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, People

Women of Greyfriars: Janet Bannatyne

Janet Bannatyne was buried at Greyfriars in 1631 and is depicted on the Foulis memorial. Here she is shown, dressed to impress, wearing a fine Dutch style of clothing that frames her face. Janet was born in 1587, the only surviving child of George Bannatyne, a wealthy Merchant who was very famous for his work on Scottish literature. Janet was George Foulis’s second wife, marrying him in 1603 when she was just 16 years old and he was 34. Janet went on to have 16 children over the next 16 years. Janet died aged 44, with so many pregnancies likely having taken a large toll on her health.

Janet’s 16 children (5 girls and 11 boys) were born as follows :

Janet 1604, James 1605, George 1606, Agnes 1607, Robert 1608, Sara 1609, Patrik 1610, John 1611, Elizabeth 1612, Robert 1613, Alexander 1614, Issobel 1615, Thomas 1616, William 1617, David 1618, Nathanael 1619

So by the age of 32 Janet had had 16 children.

Sadly 6 of her children died as infants, with 6 more dying young. Only 4 of her children survived long enough to raise their own families. If you look closely there is a young child’s head with wings carved just above & to the right of Janet’s head, looking down at her. Perhaps this symbolises the souls of her children who had ascended to heaven before her.

Janet must have had unimaginable strength to have born so many children in such quick succession, then to have raised them and dealt with the loss of so many. Whilst Janet was part of a wealthy family, her life reflects the experience of so many Women in the 17th century, for who pregnancy was an almost constant condition throughout their adult lives.

Janet Bannatyne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Mary Erskine Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, People

Women of Greyfriars: Mary Erskine

There are many amazing Women memorialised at Greyfriars Kirkyard, and many many thousands more who lie here in unmarked graves.

Just one example of an incredible Woman who did so much for other Women & Girls in her time. Mary Erskine was a philanthropic businesswoman & money lender who used her wealth to found two schools and hospitals (think boarding schools) for Maidens.

Mary was born in 1629 and was buried at Greyfriars in an unmarked grave in the Covenanters Prison area in 1707 at the grand age of 78. Mary was a very astute businesswoman at a time when she would have faced many barriers. She must have been exceptionally determined, capable and courageous to have built a successful business and achieved such wealth. And exceptionally generous to use that wealth to found the Merchant Maidens Hospital, a school for the orphaned female children of Edinburgh’s Merchants which is today named after her, The Mary Erskine School, as well as The Trades Maiden Hospital (still existing in the form of the Trades Maiden Fund). This was a school for the orphaned female children of crafts and tradesmen.

Her modern memorial at Greyfriars is shown in this picture.

Mary Erskine Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Farther Time Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, Symbolism

Father Time

Here are three examples of Father Time shown on 17th century mural monuments at Greyfriars. This character plays a fascinating role. Often mistaken for the Grim Reaper, he is actually a far more benign and welcome symbol.

His origins are literally lost in the mists of time, but most think he developed from the Greek God Chronos. To the 17th century mind he symbolises that our time on earth is short and uncertain, such that at any moment our time may run out. So be prepared at all times, by being a good Christian, follow biblical teachings and repent of your sins.

Father Time is there as our guide on the journey from life, to death and onwards to heaven. He is always shown as an elderly bearded male, often with wings, telling us he is an angelic figure, sent by God. His hourglass is there to symbolise time and remind us how precious and finite it is. But what of his scythe ? This is the tool he uses to severe the ties that bind our mortal body to our immortal soul. Once these ties are severed our Soul is released, free to ascend to heaven, where we receive our reward for a good Christian life.

Father Time is a good guy.

Farther Time Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Farther Time Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Farther Time Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1679 Chiesley Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, Events, History

Greyfriars Memorials in Date Order 1606 to 1691

These images serve to illustrate the development of the memorials over time. It also shows the extravagance of the memorials raised in 1610’s to the 1630’s – no doubt due to the prosperity of that period, which is a marked contrast to the relative paucity of memorials raised between 1640 and 1667 – no doubt due to War, Plague, Occupation and Economic Depression in Edinburgh during those decades.

The date order is based mostly on the year of first death, except for Hope where the death was 150 years before the memorial and Little where the death was 100 years before the memorial.

1606 John Jackson Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1606: John Jackson
1610 George Heriot Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1610: George Heriot
1610 Rae Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1610: Rae
1612 Dobie Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1612: Dobie
1614 Naysmith Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1614: Naysmith
1614 Laing Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1614: Laing
1615 Gilbert Primrose Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1615: Gilbert Primrose
1615 Morrison Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1615: Morrison
1616 Miller Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1616: Miller
1617 Harlay Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1617: Harlay
1619 Bishop Coupar Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1619: Bishop Coupar
1626 Dennistoun Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1626: Dennistoun
1629 Byres of Coates Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1629: Byres of Coates
1633 Foulis Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1633: Foulis
1635 Bannatyne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1635: Bannatyne
1636 Henryson Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1636: Henryson
1641 Trotter Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1641: Trotter
1644 Akinhead Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1644: Akinhead
1646 Alexander Henderson Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1646: Alexander Henderson
1646 Sir Thomas Hope Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1646: Sir Thomas Hope (although memorial dates to 1800’s)
1649 Murray Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1649: Murray
1656 Provist Tod Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1656: Provist Tod
Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Unknown
Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Unknown
1667 Mylne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1667: Mylne
1667 Douglas (Hatter) Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1667: Douglas (Hatter)
1672 Bethune Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1672: Bethune
1674 Kinloch Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1674: Kinloch
1675 Chalmers Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1675: Chalmers
1676 Borthwick Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1676: Borthwick
1676 Cunninghame Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1676: Cunninghame
1679 Kincaid Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1679: Kincaid
1679 Chiesley Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1679: Chiesley
1681 Bayne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1681: Bayne
1681 Carstares (Oswald) Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1681: Carstares (Oswald)
1683 Little Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1683: Little
1686 Sharp Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1686: Sharp
1686 Robertson Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1686: Robertson
1688 McCulloch Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1688: McCulloch
1691 Mackenzie Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
1691: Mackenzie
Baille Thomas Robertson Friends of Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Articles, History, People, Symbolism

The Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial

“the hope & life of the poor”

Today this memorial is mounted on the north wall of the Kirk, but it wasn’t originally in this position. When Thomas Robertson died in 1686 “his most mournful wife and children erected this monument”. The memorial was created by Robert Mylne, the most famed & skill Master Mason to the Crown. They had it affixed to the West Wall of the original (Old) Greyfriars Kirk, in a prominent position for all to admire. When the New Greyfriars Kirk was added to the west end of the old Kirk, this memorial found itself hidden from view in the internal space between the old and new structures. This space was subsequently used as the coal cellar, meaning this marvellous memorial suffered the indignity of being hidden and covered in coal dust. When the dividing walls between the Old & New Kirk were finally removed in the 20th century, this monument was liberated and mounted in its current position where everyone can see it again. The inscription ends with the motto “Virtue survives the Grave”. Perhaps a footnote might be added saying “This Monument survived the Coal Cellar”.

Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland
A classic Robert Mylne design in which the central panel is made up of drapes, held up in the mouth of a beast.
Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland
This small foliate face (aka Green Man) is on the monument.
Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland
A winged spirit underneath
Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland
Flanking the left side of the monument is a large Angel holding a skull on their knee (Angels have no gender).
Baille Thomas Robertson Memorial, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland
On the right side the flanking Angel holds the scales of judgement. Note the all seeing eye of god depicted in the centre of the swirl to the left.