William Inglis Surgeon 1792 Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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William Inglis Surgeon – 1792

This burial lair at Greyfriars has no memorials within, just an inscription above the doorway saying “Wiliam Inglis Surgeon 1792”. William Inglis was a prominent Scottish surgeon, serving as Deacon of the Incorporation of Surgeons and twice as President of the Royal College of Surgeons of the City of Edinburgh. As such he was a key figure in late 18th-century Edinburgh medicine, a period in which Edinburgh served as the global leader in medical research, education and practice.

He is also well known for his role as an early captain of the Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the oldest golf club in the world, famously painted by David Allan in 1787. Allan, a member of the same golf club, shows Inglis, wearing the red colours of the club, with his caddy on Leith Links, where the club was then located (it’s now based at Muirfield in East Lothian). Behind Inglis, the annual trophy presented by the City – a golf club with silver balls attached – is being paraded across the Links. Golf was a popular pastime among Edinburgh’s surgeons and other high ranking professionals, during the peak enlightenment years. This artwork holds historical significance as one of the earliest images of organized golf in Scotland, capturing the sport’s evolution from informal recreation to a structured gentlemanly pursuit on natural links courses like Leith, which featured undulating turf, dunes, and coastal hazards. Golf historians recognise this period in Edinburgh as laying the foundations for the huge growth in popularity of rules based golf played at clubs all over the country and beyond.

William Inglis died in 1792, leaving a legacy that bridged surgical excellence and the foundational years of organized golf.

William Inglis Surgeon 1792 Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh

Thomas Hunter Blair Greyfriars Kirkyard
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Thomas Hunter Blair 1782 – 1840

Major General & Commander of The Bath (*), distinguished for his service in The Peninsula, Belgium & Ava. Fought at the battles of Roleija, Vimiera, Lugo, Corunna, Oporto, Talavera, Melloon & Waterloo. Severely wounded twice, he received many medals, some of which are carved on his memorial in his family lair at Greyfriars.

(*) The Order of the Bath is a British order of Chivalry founded by George I in 1725. Recipients are usually senior military officers. The name derives from the medieval ceremony of ritual bathing before being knighted.

Thomas Hunter Blair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Thomas Hunter Blair Greyfriars Kirkyard

William McGonagall Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Where is William McGonagall?

One of the most visited memorials in Greyfriars Kirkyard is that of William McGonagall. This is in the West Yard, beside the gates to Heriot’s School. Everyday crowds of folk peer up at this modern shiny black memorial. Most come here because of the association with the Professor of Transfiguration character in Harry Potter, who bears the name Minerva McGonagall (brilliantly played by Maggie Smith in the movies).

Other visitors come here to celebrate the man who proudly bears the title of “Scotland’s Worst Poet”, or who liked to style himself later in his life as “Sir William Topaz McGonagall, Knight of the White Elephant of Burmah”. Well before Harry Potter was written, William McGonagall had legions of adoring fans, many with a rich sense of humour. These fans thought that their poetic hero should be memorialised in both Dundee (where he spent most of his life) and in Edinburgh (where he spent his final years).

He was finally recognised by the people of Dundee in 1997, who said of McGonagall that he was, “So giftedly bad, he backed unwittingly into genius” and then in 1999 they finally achieved their wish for a memorial in Edinburgh, when the shiny black plaque was installed at Greyfriars.

But why is it in this place telling the world that William McGonagall is buried “near this spot”. Let us consider how likely it is that William McGonagall is actually buried anywhere near here at all.

William’s date and place of birth is uncertain (but Ireland in 1825 seems most likely), but we know for a fact that it was in Edinburgh where he died penniless and largely forgotten at 5 South College Street in 1902. The death was duly recorded by the City as being at 4pm on 29th September 1902 as a result of a cerebral haemorrhage. However a search of the City records for details of his burial turns up nothing. Perhaps the least likely place he would have been buried in Edinburgh was the West Yard in Greyfriars. The reason being that the West Yard never had any “common burials” (being burials of the poor in unmarked graves). Furthermore, post 1870 there were no further common burials anywhere in Greyfriars. After that date the only burials here were of individual Family members of those who had long standing burial rights to use their family burial lairs. Such people were the well heeled, not the penniless poets. Non of Edinburgh’s cemeteries have a burial record for William McGonagall. It is possible he was taken to be buried in Dundee, or perhaps he was buried in a Roman Catholic cemetery, possibly Mount Vernon, Edinburgh’s Catholic Cemetery that opened in 1895.

So whilst we don’t know where William McGonagall was actually buried, it seems the most unlikely place of all would be in the West Yard at Greyfriars. So, unless you know differently, I think that modern shiny black plaque is telling us a story. But hey, we all like a good story (or poem), don’t we ?

 William McGonagall Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo 1739 – 1806

We are often rather negative about Bankers, thinking of them as unproductive fat cats who get wealthy on the backs of others. But that caricature is not applicable to Sir William Forbes. Brought up in rather humble circumstances after his father died when William was just 4, William worked his way up from a being a lowly bank clerk at Coutts to becoming one of Scotland’s greatest bankers and philanthropists of the 18th century.

Brought up by his mother in a small 2 roomed house in Forrester’s Wynd in Edinburgh, his banking apprenticeship lasted four years. William impressed everyone he worked with, becoming head of Coutts Edinburgh Office in 1761. In 1763 William set up a new Banking Partnership called Forbes, Blair & Herries, Bankers which within a decade became one of the most trusted and successful banks in Scotland.

In 1770 William married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir James Hay of Hayston, M.D., with whom he had nine sons and seven daughters.

William was a co-founder of the Royal Society of Edinburgh and was involved in many philanthropic projects in Edinburgh including the new High School, the Merchant Company, the Morningside Lunatic Asylum, and the Blind Asylum.

Elizabeth died in 1802 and William died in 1806 at 39 George Street in Edinburgh. William had acquired a burial vault at Greyfriars Kirkyard along the South Wall (near Mackenzie’s Mausoleum), where he and many generations of his family were buried during the 19th century.

Sir William Forbes of Pitsligo Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
The Hunter Blair Family Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
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The Hunter Blair Family Lair

It is rare to find a family portrait in such an informal pose, but here we have just such for a Family whose burial lair is at Greyfriars Kirkyard.

Sir James Hunter Blair, (1741 – 1787) was a Scottish banker, landowner and politician, who served as Member of Parliament for Edinburgh from 1780 to 1784 and Lord Provost of Edinburgh from 1784 to 1786. As Lord Provost he is best known for commencing the construction of South Bridge, over the Cowgate, which transformed the south side of Edinburgh. Two of the new areas just off South Bridge carry his name, being Hunter Square (around the Tron Kirk) and Blair Street (running down to the Cowgate).

Born in Ayr in 1741, the son of a merchant, in 1756 he was apprenticed to Messrs Coutts, bankers in Edinburgh and in 1763 became a partner in the banking company of Sir William Forbes. After marrying Jean Blair, the daughter and heiress of John Blair of Dunskey in Wigtownshire in 1770, the family name became Hunter Blair when she inherited her father’s estate in 1777. They had 14 children. James died aged just 46 in 1787 after contracting typhus.

Sir James Hunter Blair was a founder member of the Royal Society of Edinburgh and welcomed Robert Burns when the poet first arrived in Edinburgh. On his death, Burns composed an elegy, beginning: “he lamp of day, with ill-presaging glare”, and which goes on to extol in a rather ponderous fashion Blair’s public virtues. Burns himself thought it was a rather mediocre piece, but other critics described it in rather more negative terms. The whole elegy is here.

The Hunter Blair Family Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
The Hunter Blair Family Lair Greyfriars Kirkyard
Major Adam Davie Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Candy Wars

Some inscriptions on memorials at Greyfriars reference forgotten wars, in remote foreign lands, involving terrible suffering. This memorial to Adam Davie, Major in His Majesty’s Service, who died a prisoner of war in the City of Candy, the Island of Ceylon, in July 1812, after 9 years captivity there, is a case in point.

Candy (or Kandy) was a Kingdom within Ceylon (now called Sri Lanka) that remained Independent by resisting British Colonial rule until 1815. There was a series of wars between 1796 and 1815 in which the British Army sought to gain control of the highlands in the centre of Ceylon. Major Adam Morries, the only son of John Davie & Mary Flint, was captured by enemy forces during one of these wars, with his soldiers being massacred after Major Adam Davie ordered them to surrender.

Major Adam Davie is known to have survived as a special prisoner of the King of Candy for at least nine years. Still wearing his tattered Major’s jacket throughout his captivity, but barefooted, he apparently never made any attempt to escape Candy and all requests to the King of Candy from the British Army for the Major’s release were refused. Davie had apparently married a Candy woman during his captivity and had children. So quite possibly he didn’t want to leave Candy, fearful of possible retributions for his actions preceding his capture. He died of a stroke in 1812.

The full rather incredible and bloody story of the wars & the events leading up to his capture are told here.

The independence of the Kandyan kingdom came to an end in 1815

Major Adam Davie Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Major Adam Davie Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Henry Siddons and William Murray Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Henry Siddons and William Murray

Just to the left of the gates to the Covenanters Prison are this pair of memorials to a family of Theatre impresarios, Henry Siddon on the right and his brother in law, William Henry Murray on the left. Henry was an actor who first found fame on the stage in London, before relocating to Edinburgh to take over management of The Theatre Royal at the east end of Princes Street (now the General Post office buildings). His brother in law, William, took over running the Theatre Royal after Henry died in 1815, and did an excellent job.

Both men were close to Walter Scott who brought George IV to Edinburgh in 1822. William created the settings at various venues, contrived the “revived ancient dresses” and arranged the “traditional” pageants for which George IV’s visit is much remembered to this day. William was particularly acclaimed for his success in transforming the Assembly Rooms in George Street into a theatrical palace for the Peers’ Grand Ball, an event that was pivotal in making the tartan kilt, which had until then been thought of by Edinburgh Gentry as the primitive dress of the rougher sorts in the lawless Highlands, into the national dress of the whole of Scotland. The King’s last and least formal public appearance during his visit to Edinburgh was at a theatre performance of Scott’s Rob Roy adapted and produced by Murray.

Henry Siddons and William Murray Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Janet MacMath Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Women of Greyfriars: Janet MacMath

Janet MacMath was buried at Greyfriars in 1630, 11 years before her Husband, John Trotter of Mortonhall, who died in 1641.

Janet is depicted with her husband, both dressed to impress with large neck ruffs & Janet has a large hood which frames her face.

John Trotter was a successful merchant in Edinburgh during the peaceful & relatively prosperous reign of James VI. John amassed a goodly fortune which allowed him to buy the large and fruitful estate and Baronage of Mortonhall. Thereafter their family line became “the Trotters of Mortonhall”, which they still hold to this day.

John & Janet were married in 1598 and over the following 19 years they had 10 children, six sons and four daughters. Janet’s date of birth is unclear so we can’t be sure how old she was when she died. But we do know that John lived to the grand old age of 88.

This memorial was erected on the North Wall of Greyfriars Kirkyard in 1641, initially open to the elements. But in 1709 their Great Grandson, also called John Trotter, erected a Mausoleum over the family burial ground, enclosing the memorial and thereby cutting it off from public view.

The inscription on the memorial is in Latin, and reads :

Mors patet, hora latet.

Octoginta ultra Trotterus vixerat annos;

Progenie felix, ambitione carens.

Publica privatus curavit; semper egenis

Aut opere, aut opibus, contulis almus opem.

Which translates to :

Death is sure; the hour unsure

Trotter lived for over eighty years;

Happy with his offspring & devoid of ambition.

He cared for the public good as a private citizen;

He always gave generous help to the needy,

Either by work or by wealth.

That should probably be read as if an application form for admittance to heaven ;o)

Janet MacMath Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Janet Bannatyne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Women of Greyfriars: Janet Bannatyne

Janet Bannatyne was buried at Greyfriars in 1631 and is depicted on the Foulis memorial. Here she is shown, dressed to impress, wearing a fine Dutch style of clothing that frames her face. Janet was born in 1587, the only surviving child of George Bannatyne, a wealthy Merchant who was very famous for his work on Scottish literature. Janet was George Foulis’s second wife, marrying him in 1603 when she was just 16 years old and he was 34. Janet went on to have 16 children over the next 16 years. Janet died aged 44, with so many pregnancies likely having taken a large toll on her health.

Janet’s 16 children (5 girls and 11 boys) were born as follows :

Janet 1604, James 1605, George 1606, Agnes 1607, Robert 1608, Sara 1609, Patrik 1610, John 1611, Elizabeth 1612, Robert 1613, Alexander 1614, Issobel 1615, Thomas 1616, William 1617, David 1618, Nathanael 1619

So by the age of 32 Janet had had 16 children.

Sadly 6 of her children died as infants, with 6 more dying young. Only 4 of her children survived long enough to raise their own families. If you look closely there is a young child’s head with wings carved just above & to the right of Janet’s head, looking down at her. Perhaps this symbolises the souls of her children who had ascended to heaven before her.

Janet must have had unimaginable strength to have born so many children in such quick succession, then to have raised them and dealt with the loss of so many. Whilst Janet was part of a wealthy family, her life reflects the experience of so many Women in the 17th century, for who pregnancy was an almost constant condition throughout their adult lives.

Janet Bannatyne Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
Mary Erskine Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh
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Women of Greyfriars: Mary Erskine

There are many amazing Women memorialised at Greyfriars Kirkyard, and many many thousands more who lie here in unmarked graves.

Just one example of an incredible Woman who did so much for other Women & Girls in her time. Mary Erskine was a philanthropic businesswoman & money lender who used her wealth to found two schools and hospitals (think boarding schools) for Maidens.

Mary was born in 1629 and was buried at Greyfriars in an unmarked grave in the Covenanters Prison area in 1707 at the grand age of 78. Mary was a very astute businesswoman at a time when she would have faced many barriers. She must have been exceptionally determined, capable and courageous to have built a successful business and achieved such wealth. And exceptionally generous to use that wealth to found the Merchant Maidens Hospital, a school for the orphaned female children of Edinburgh’s Merchants which is today named after her, The Mary Erskine School, as well as The Trades Maiden Hospital (still existing in the form of the Trades Maiden Fund). This was a school for the orphaned female children of crafts and tradesmen.

Her modern memorial at Greyfriars is shown in this picture.

Mary Erskine Greyfriars Kirkyard Edinburgh